Assembly instructions for Erde 153, 163 and 193 trailers
We find that some people have problems following the instructions Erde supply with their trailers. To make this easier we have put together our own illustrated instructions for assembling Erde trailers.
Tools needed:
10mm spanner/socket.
13mm spanner/socket.
17mm spanner/socket.
Flat-head screwdriver.
Socket extension.
Things to remember:
With the exception of a few minor differences the Erde 153, 163 and 193 are assembled in the same way.
Do not fully tighten any bolts until all side panels and mudguards are correctly fitted. This is because you may need the extra slack in order to correctly position some parts.
Most nuts are captive nuts to speed up assembly.
Click on a number to quickly jump to a step.
1. Start with the floor pan upside down, fit the side reinforcement bars and axle.
2. Fit the drawbar to the axle.
3. Attach the drawbar to the floor pan using the tipping bracket.
4. Fasten the light bar to the floor pan.
5. Attach the cables to the lights.
6. Fit the wheels.
7. Thumb tighten all bolts under the trailer.
8. Turn the trailer the correct way up.
9. Fit a side panel.
10. Fit the other side panel.
11. Fit the front panel.
12. Fit the tailgate.
13. Fit the mudguards.
14. Tighten all Bolts.
15. Fit front ‘nudge’ bars.
Please note: Due to vibration bolts in new trailers can rattle loose. All bolts MUST be checked after the trailers first 60 miles.
It is also recommended to check lights, couplings, wheels, and wheel bearings BEFORE every long journey.
1. Start with the floor pan upside down. Fit the side reinforcement bars and axle.
Before you can mount the axle you must check that the reinforcement bars are in place. These should already be in position, if not, they must be pushed into each side of the floor pan where the captive nuts in the reinforcement bars will line up with the bolt holes in the floor pan.
These captive nuts are used to fix the axle to the floor pan.
Now you can fix the axle to the floor pan. Do not completely tighten the axle bolts at this stage as you will need some extra slack to fit the body panels and mud guards later.
A spring washer should be used on each axle bolt to prevent them from vibrating loose.
2. Fit the drawbar to the axle.
On the drawbar, remove the large bolt that is only thumb tight where the coupling connects to the drawbar. This loose bolt keeps the A-frame drawbar folded together during shipping and will need removing before the drawbar can be opened up.
Remember to thread the two coloured wires through the drawbar, leaving enough slack to reach the light bar.
Now you will need to open up the drawbar. Connect one side of the drawbar to the axle before opening it so that you have something to pull against, this should make it easier.
When the A-frame drawbar has been opened up, bolt the end you were pulling on to the axle as well. Remember that the two bolts that connect the drawbar to the axle are the pivot point for the trailers tipping feature, so don’t over tighten them.
Replace the bolt that you removed from the coupling before opening up the drawbar. You will notice that this bolt now passes through both the coupling and drawbar, tighten this up to lock the A-frame in position.
Now you have to fit the A-frame’s reinforcing crossbar. This is a small length of box section with angled edges that fits between the two main sections of the drawbar. This gives the drawbar extra strength, as well as a place to mount a tipping bracket.
3. Attach the drawbar to the floor pan using the tipping bracket.
The tipping bracket must be fitted to the floor pan as shown below. There are pre-drilled holes on the front edge of the floor pan where the ‘hook’ part of the bracket mounts. The adjustable latch comes pre-attached to the A-frame crossbar.
Remember that in the image below the floor pan is upside down.
4. Fasten the rear light bar to the floor pan.
The light bar is eventually secured by the body panels, but first you must slot it under this plate. This will hold the light bar in place while you turn the trailer the correct way up to fit the body panels.
5. Attach the cables to the lights.
Attach the colour coded cables to the corresponding sockets on the reverse of the rear light bar. Slot the cables into the sockets and then twist the coloured sheath clockwise to lock it in place. The cable will only slot into the socket in one direction, so line up the pins and don’t force it.
6. Fit the wheels.
On this model of trailer the wheel nuts are actually stud bolts. To tighten these bolts evenly, work your way around the wheel tightening opposite bolts until you arrive at the first bolt again. This is the most effective way to tighten any wheel stud or nut as it results in even tension around the rim.
7. Thumb tighten all bolts under the trailer.
8. Turn the trailer the correct way up. This will require at least two people.
9. Fit a side panel.
It is best to mount side panels at the back first, and then lower the front into position. The easiest way of doing this is to hook the light bar with rear of the side panel before lowering the front into position.
While the rear of the side panel is ‘hooked’, lower the front of the panel into position.
There is a small captive nut on both sides of the light bar, one for each panel. When both side panels are in position a 10mm bolt should be inserted underneath both rear corners and tightened up into the captive nuts on the light bar. It is important to remember these as they are so small they are often forgotten.
10. Fit the other side panel in the same way as before.
11. Fit the front panel.
The front panels on the 153, 163 and 193 are hinged and removable, making the trailer more versatile.
On each side of the front panel you will notice two small lugs. The lugs closest to the top of this panel slot into a cut-out in the front edge of both side panels. This forms a basic hinge. See the example below.
The lugs at the bottom of this panel slot into latches also at the front of each side panel. These latches can be quite stiff, so line the lugs up with the latches before firmly swinging the panel into place. These latches are then secured with lynch pins.
12. Fit the tailgate.
Before the tailgate can be fitted you must attach hinges to the rear of you trailer. The hinges fasten to the trailer with a single bolt while small locating studs hold them in the correct position. Locating studs are useful when you begin to tighten the bolts securing the hinges because the hinge would naturally want to rotate with the bolt when under pressure.
13. Fit the mudguards.
Remember to fit the mudguard reinforcement plates. These prevent bolt heads from pulling through the thin metal of the mudguards.
The mudguards mount onto pre-drilled holes in the side of the floor pan, located just above the wheels. A 13mm socket and extension is needed to reach these bolts.
On this model of trailer there is an extra bolt securing the mudguard to the trailer. It passes through the side panel from the inside of the trailer and tightens into a captive nut on the inside of the mud guard.
If you are having trouble with nuts and bolts not lining up, try using a screwdriver in the bolt hole to lever the panels into position. This is why most bolts should be left thumb tight until this stage.
14. Tighten all Bolts.
Start with the body panels and mud guards before moving on to the axle, drawbar and tipping bracket. Make sure all bolts are tight and these parts are secure.
To reach the axle, tipping bracket and drawbar bolts, you may find it easier to stand the trailer on end. Don’t worry about breaking the rear lights, they are recessed so the trailer can be stored this way. Lifting the trailer into this position will require two people.
Tighten the axle bolts with a 17mm socket. You may also need a socket extension to reach past the wheels.
Tighten the drawbar bolt. This requires a 17mm socket and ring spanner.
Make sure the tipping bracket is secure. If you have fitted a spare wheel holder you may not be able to use a ratchet in this small space. A 17mm ring spanner will work fine.
15. Fit the front ‘nudge’ bars.
Three bolts hold each of these bars in place. One on the side…
…and two on the front.
Again, remember to perform a thorough check of all nuts, bolts, wheels, bearings and lights after the first 60 miles. Vibrations can cause slackening of nuts and bolts in new trailers, so it is very important you perform this check.
For a large selection of Erde trailers and accessories please visit our main website – towingandtrailers.co.uk
